What's the difference between brick and stone masonry?
This is a common one, and it's pretty straightforward. Brick masonry uses manufactured units – bricks – that are typically uniform in size and shape. They're made from clay, shale, or concrete, fired in a kiln, and then laid with mortar joints. Stone masonry, on the other hand, uses natural stone, which can be cut into specific shapes (ashlar masonry) or used in its natural, irregular form (rubble masonry). Think of a classic brick colonial versus a fieldstone wall. Both are durable and beautiful, but they have different aesthetics, installation methods, and often, different price points. Bricks offer a more consistent, uniform look, while stone gives you that organic, natural feel. We do both, but folks often come to us specifically asking about brick for its timeless look and predictable performance.
How long does brickwork typically last in New England?
Good brickwork, done right, should last a very, very long time here in New England. We're talking 75 to 100 years, easily, sometimes more. The key is 'done right.' That means proper foundation, good quality bricks, and most importantly, correct mortar mixes and skilled installation. Our freeze-thaw cycles in Lexington are brutal. Water gets into tiny cracks, freezes, expands, and then thaws, slowly breaking things down. If the mortar isn't formulated for our climate, or if it's not properly packed, you'll see issues much sooner. But a well-built brick wall or chimney? It's an investment that pays dividends for generations. You'll probably be replacing your roof two or three times before you need major brick repair, assuming it was built correctly in the first place.
What kind of maintenance does brick require?
Brick is pretty low-maintenance, which is one of its big selling points. Mostly, you're looking at keeping it clean and checking for any signs of wear or damage. Here's what I usually tell people:
- Cleaning: Every few years, give it a good wash. A soft brush and plain water, maybe a mild detergent for stubborn dirt or mildew. Don't use a high-pressure washer unless you know what you're doing – it can damage the mortar joints or even the brick face.
- Inspections: Walk around your property once a year, maybe in the spring after the snow melts. Look for crumbling mortar, cracked bricks, or any signs of moisture penetration. Pay extra attention to areas exposed to a lot of weather, like chimney tops or exposed retaining walls.
- Repointing: This is the big one. Over time, the mortar joints will wear away before the bricks do. When you see mortar starting to recede, crack, or crumble, it's time for repointing. That's where we carefully remove the old, damaged mortar and replace it with fresh stuff. Catching it early prevents water from getting behind the bricks and causing bigger problems. It's a lot cheaper to repoint than to rebuild.
Can I match existing brick on an older Lexington home?
Matching existing brick on an older home, especially in a town like Lexington with so many historic properties, can be a challenge, but it's usually doable. It's not just about finding the right color; you also need to consider the size, texture, and even the manufacturing process. Older bricks might be softer, or have unique imperfections that modern bricks don't. Sometimes we can source reclaimed bricks that are a perfect match. Other times, we work with brick manufacturers who can custom-blend or even custom-fire bricks to get as close as possible. We also have to consider the mortar color and joint style, which makes a huge difference in the overall appearance. It takes a keen eye and a good supplier, but we've had great success blending new work seamlessly with old.
What causes brick to crack or spall?
Cracks and spalling (when the face of the brick flakes off) are usually signs of a problem. Cracks can be caused by a few things: foundation settlement, which means the ground underneath is shifting; thermal expansion and contraction if expansion joints weren't properly installed; or even impact damage. Spalling, on the other hand, is almost always related to moisture and our freeze-thaw cycles. Water gets absorbed into the brick, freezes, expands, and pops off the surface. This often happens if the bricks aren't meant for exterior use, if they're constantly wet, or if previous repairs used a mortar that was too hard, trapping moisture in the brick itself. Sometimes, it's just old age and weathering, but often it points to a drainage issue or a material incompatibility. We always investigate the root cause before recommending a fix.
Is bricklaying a DIY project?
Look, I'm a contractor, so you might expect me to say no, absolutely not. But honestly, for small, non-structural projects, like a simple garden bed or a small patio, if you're handy and patient, you could probably tackle it. There are plenty of resources out there. However, for anything structural – a chimney, a retaining wall, a house foundation, or even a large patio – I'd strongly advise against it. Bricklaying looks simple, but there's a lot of technique involved: getting the mortar consistency right, keeping your courses level and plumb, proper joint tooling, and understanding drainage. A poorly laid brick wall won't just look bad; it can fail, cause water damage, or even be a safety hazard. Plus, getting the right permits for structural work is crucial, and that's something a professional like All Star Masonry Inc. handles all the time. You wouldn't try to rewire your whole house, right? Same principle applies here.
How do you handle drainage in brick projects?
Drainage is absolutely critical in any masonry project, especially with our heavy rains and snowmelt here in Lexington. Water is the enemy of masonry. For foundations or retaining walls, we'll often install a drainage system behind the wall, like a perforated pipe surrounded by gravel, to direct water away. We also use weep holes in certain applications, which are small openings in the mortar joints that allow any trapped moisture to escape. For patios or walkways, we ensure there's a proper slope away from the house or other structures so water doesn't pool. Sometimes, it means grading the soil underneath before we even start laying brick. Ignoring drainage is a recipe for disaster – you'll end up with efflorescence (those white powdery stains), spalling, or even structural damage down the line. It's one of those things you don't see, but it's vital to the longevity of the work.